I am quite an experienced gardener, but fairly new to the art of pond care. Over the last 5 years I have discovered the simple pleasure of hardy water lilies. It is amazing how easy choosing, planting, fertilizing,  and caring for a hardy water lily is.

Pond or water garden size, as well as location and climate, is important to choosing which water lily is best suited. Large ponds can handle numerous cultivar, both small to large. The Glorie-du-Temple-sur-lot is an example of a large water lily that needs room for optimum development. Nymphaea Odorata is also a nice choice for the largest of ponds. Sulpherea, Colorado, Fabiola, Attraction, and James Brydon are favorite choices for medium ponds. Small ponds and container water gardens do best with Rustica Sioux, Berit Strawn, Burgundy Princess, or other small or mini water lilies. Filtration and/or aeration is important in all sizes of ponds. Smaller water gardens may need a periodic water change of no more than 20% at a time to keep water fresh. An important factor with pond size is the area you live in. Water lilies can survive deep in the large to medium pond over winter if the crown of the tuber keeps from freezing. A pond de-icer certainly was helpful in my zone 4/5 this year. Water lilies in small ponds and container gardens can be brought indoors during a harsh winter. Most water lilies need at least 6 hours of sunlight a day for optimum blooming in summer and fall. Colorado and James Brydon are good shade tolerant cultivar. Although hardy waterlilies are considered hardy in zones 3 to 10, some thrive better in the cooler or warmer areas of those zones. Burgundy Princess wilts in the highest of heat, Texas Dawn is extremely heat tolerant, and Berit Strawn blooms best with heat and sun. Some cultivar, like Mexicana and Colorado are evergreen in mild temperatures. Placement in a pond does not seem to be a factor, as most hardy water lilies are not bothered by fountains, waterfalls, or moving water.

Hardy water lilies come packaged in many different forms and in different stages of growth. Commercial plants arriving in plastic pots or netted coco-planters can be kept in their original containers for planting in the pond. Fertilization is not usually needed. If the foliage growth is less than 2", they should be placed in the shallow area of the pond or water garden at a depth of about 5" of water over the crown. As the foliage grows and reaches toward the surface, the planter may be stepped down to deeper areas of the pond. Water lilies with large amounts of foliage can be planted directly in the deep area. Plants arriving as dormant tubers, bare root, or in very small pots will need to be re-potted. I have found that the best pots to use are the coco-fiber netted planters. Don't mistake them from coco-peat, as those contain harmful tannins. Place regular garden soil, a slow-release fertilizer tablet, the water lily tuber, and a few river rocks into coco-fiber. These planters are light and can be moved around with ease, especially handy when dividing tubers. Make sure a waterproof tag is attached to easily identify these travelers. Freshly potted plants should be acclimated in the shallow area of the pond to watch for emerging growth. Another recommended planter is the hard, plastic, mesh-looking pot. These come in all types of sizes, are readily available, and a bit more stationary. They might be better for ponds with a high amount of fish activity. I would recommend lining the pot with natural material, such as burlap, before planting. For a large naturalized pond, or for those who do not want to be bothered by dividing, replanting, or fertilizing, water lily tubers may be planted directly in the bottom of the pond. This is best for tubers with over 6" of growth. Fertilization is not necessary, as the roots will receive nutrients through the fertile soil. Plants may be pulled if overgrown.

I have heard many different recommendations on how and when to fertilize hardy water lilies. I choose not to measure cow manure with definite ratio, nor do I want to worry about the smell, mess, or contamination. I have found that a ratio of 10-14-8 in convenient slow-release tablets works just fine for me and my water lilies. It is 10% nitrogen, 14% phosphate, and 8% potash. The recommended dose is 1 tablet per month during the growing season, and 2 tablets per month when temperatures reach above 75 degrees F. These tablets are readily available and reasonably priced. I cheat and fertilize once a month from April through August. My water lilies are on their own after that, as I have other gardening chores to attend to.

Well, I hope this information has been helpful. I was going to touch on the subject of dividing hardy water lilies, but I'll save that guide for another time. Enjoy your water gardens and hardy water lilies. I do!